Captains Bay: Anguilla's Wild, End-of-the-Road Beach
A crescent of untouched sand at the island's rugged eastern edge, reached by the bumpy road less traveled.
Why Go
When you're ready to trade beach bars and umbrellas for crashing surf, dramatic cliffs, and the feeling that you've stumbled onto a Caribbean secret, Captains Bay is where Anguilla stops performing and starts breathing.
The Experience
Captains Bay sits at the far eastern tip of Anguilla, past Junks Hole, where the pavement gives up and a rutted dirt track takes over. The reward for the teeth-rattling drive is a wide, wind-swept crescent of powdery white sand hemmed in by low limestone bluffs and an Atlantic that arrives in long, thundering rollers. There are no beach bars, no vendors, no chairs to rent, no lifeguard stands. Most days you'll share the sand with a handful of locals fishing off the rocks and maybe one other couple wandering the shoreline. The sound of the surf is genuinely loud, the sunrises are theatrical, and the sense of solitude is the whole point.
What to Try
Come at sunrise with coffee in a thermos and walk the full arc of the bay barefoot, then scramble up onto the eastern headland for a Cliffside view of the open Atlantic. Beachcomb the tide line for sea glass and shells (the swell delivers plenty), sketch or photograph the wave patterns crashing against the rocks, and pack a picnic to enjoy in the shade of the low sea-grape trees at the back of the beach. Adventurous walkers can hike west along the coastline toward Savannah Bay in about 30 to 40 minutes for one of the most scenic stretches on the island.
Insider Tip
Skip the sedan and rent an SUV or jeep ΓÇö the last mile is rutted dirt with no signage, and taxis often refuse the trip or charge a premium. Even more important: the shorebreak here is powerful and the undertow is no joke, so keep swimming to ankle-depth wading. Download offline maps before you leave the paved road because cell service drops out, and bring absolutely everything you need (water, snacks, shade, sunscreen, a trash bag to carry out what you bring in) because there is nothing for sale within 15 minutes' drive.
The Practical Stuff
Located on Anguilla's East End, past Island Harbour and Junks Hole Bay. Free and open 24/7, no admission or facilities. Roughly a 30 to 40 minute drive from Blowing Point Ferry or Clayton J. Lloyd Airport; the final approach is unpaved, so an SUV or 4x4 is strongly recommended. No restrooms, no lifeguards, no shade beyond a few sea-grape trees, no food or drink vendors. Cell service is spotty. Dogs are not permitted. Best visited in the morning for calmer light and cooler sand; afternoon winds and swell pick up considerably.
Pair It With
- Junks Hole Bay (Palm Grove) — On the drive back from Captains Bay, stop at this equally remote neighboring cove where Nat & Denise's beach shack serves crayfish and cold Caribs ΓÇö the ideal lunch after a morning of wild coastline.
- Island Harbour — The closest village with real amenities; grab a boat over to Scilly Cay for lobster and rum punches, or watch the colorful fishing fleet come in at the pier.
- Scilly Cay Guide — A tiny offshore islet reached by a two-minute free boat ride from Island Harbour, famous for grilled lobster, crayfish, and its legendary rum punch ΓÇö a lively contrast to Captains Bay's solitude.
- Savannah Bay — Connected to Captains Bay by a stunning 30 to 40 minute coastal hike; another long, uncrowded eastern beach that pairs perfectly for a full day of wild Anguilla.