Why Go
This is the smallest landmass in the world split between two nations, and the split is the whole character of the place. The Dutch south is louder — Philipsburg's cruise crowds, the Simpson Bay bars, the casinos, the aircraft coming in low over Maho. The French north is quieter and slower, with Grand Case's restaurant street and Orient Bay's beach clubs and a bakery in every village. You drive between them without a border post and often without noticing, which means you get two holidays for one flight. Decide which side you sleep on, because that choice shapes the trip far more than the hotel does.
What It's Like
The island is small enough to circle in a couple of hours, and almost everything sits on the coast. On the Dutch side, Philipsburg is the capital and the cruise port, a long boardwalk and a duty-free shopping street that empties completely once the ships leave. Simpson Bay wraps around the lagoon and holds most of the marinas, bars and restaurants; Maho sits under the runway approach; Cupecoy Beach and Mullet Bay are the west-coast sand. Cross into the French side and the pace changes within a few minutes: Marigot has a waterfront market and Fort Louis on the hill above it, Grand Case is one street of restaurants and lolo grills, Orient Bay is the long east-coast beach, and Anse Marcel and Cul de Sac sit quiet at the north end. The east coast around Dawn Beach and Oyster Pond is the calmest part of the island and the least built on.
What to Do
Eat on the French side at least twice — Grand Case is the reason people come back, and the lolos beside the smart restaurants are as good and a fraction of the price. On the Dutch side, Thirsty Pirate, Dutch Blonde Beach Bar & Restaurant and Replay Restaurant & Sports Bar are the Simpson Bay evening; Bombay Bites and Taô Garden are worth crossing the island for. Get on the water: Funseaker, Red Baron Charters and Crocs Harbour all run day sails, and Blue Odyssey and Dive Sint Maarten handle the underwater version. Philipsburg's Front Street is genuinely good for duty-free if you want it, and dead quiet on days with no ship in. Maho is the aircraft-watching beach and it is exactly as advertised — worth an hour, not an afternoon.
Insider Tip
Check the cruise schedule before you plan a day in Philipsburg. With three or four ships in, Front Street and the boardwalk are shoulder-to-shoulder and every taxi on the island is committed; on a day with none, the same street is close to empty and half the shops shorten their hours. The schedule is public and it changes the town completely. The same logic runs in reverse for Grand Case and Orient Bay, which stay busy on ship days precisely because most passengers never make it that far north.
The Practical Stuff
One island, two legal systems, no border check — you simply drive across, and hire cars are fine on both sides. Driving is on the right. The Dutch side uses the Netherlands Antillean guilder and the French side the euro, but US dollars are accepted almost everywhere on both, which is what most visitors use; card acceptance is better on the Dutch side and cash still helps at the lolos and smaller French places. English is spoken across the whole island, French is the working language of the north, and Dutch is largely administrative. The island IS in the hurricane belt, with the season running roughly June to November, and December to April is the dry, busy and expensive half. Princess Juliana on the Dutch side is the main airport; the small Grand Case airfield handles regional flights.
Things to Do in St Maarten-St Martin
- Grand Case — One street of restaurants and lolo grills, and the best eating on the island.
- Philipsburg — The Dutch capital, boardwalk and duty-free — a different town depending on the cruise schedule.
- Marigot — The French capital, with a harbourfront market and Fort Louis above it.
- Orient Bay — The long east-coast beach and its beach clubs, on the French side.
- Maho — Aircraft passing low over the sand, and the bars that exist because of it.
- Simpson Bay — Marinas, bars and restaurants around the lagoon, and the Dutch-side base.
- Cupecoy Beach — West-coast sand and cliffs, quieter than the bays either side.
- Mullet Bay — The Dutch side's best stretch of beach, and busy for good reason.
- Dawn Beach — The calm east coast, with sunrise and offshore snorkelling.
- Anse Marcel — A sheltered bay at the northern tip, away from everything.
- Oyster Pond — Marina country on the border, quiet and out of the resort strips.
- Pointe Blanche — Above Philipsburg, and the view back over Great Bay.
Common Questions About St Maarten-St Martin
Do you need a passport to cross between St Maarten and St Martin?
No. There is no border post between the Dutch and French sides and you drive across without stopping. You will need your passport to enter the island in the first place, and there is usually a small sign or monument marking the line.
Which side of St Maarten should you stay on?
The Dutch side for nightlife, casinos, shopping and the airport; the French side for food, quieter beaches and a slower pace. The island is small enough to visit both daily, so the choice is about where you want your evenings, not your days.
What currency is used in St Maarten?
The Dutch side uses the Netherlands Antillean guilder and the French side the euro, but US dollars are accepted almost everywhere on both and are what most visitors use. Cards work well on the Dutch side; carry some cash for the lolos and smaller French places.
Is Maho Beach worth visiting?
For an hour, yes. The aircraft really do pass that low and it is genuinely striking. It is a small, busy beach that exists around the spectacle rather than a place to spend a day, and the arrivals board tells you when the big ones land.
Is St Maarten in the hurricane belt?
Yes, with the season running roughly June to November. The island was hit hard in 2017 and has rebuilt substantially since. December to April is the dry, busy and most expensive part of the year.
How long do you need in St Maarten?
Five to seven days is comfortable and lets you use both sides properly. The island is small, so extra days go into doing less rather than travelling further — which, with Grand Case and Orient Bay on hand, is not a bad way to spend them.
