Cove Bay
Anguilla's mellow, half-mile crescent where locals go when they want the beach to themselves.
Why Go
Skip the postcard crowds at Shoal Bay for a morning ΓÇö Cove Bay is the quiet, wind-swept sweep of powdery sand on Anguilla's western flank where horses gallop past sunbathers and the water stays waist-deep for what feels like a hundred yards out.
The Experience
Cove Bay unspools between the low bluffs of West End Village in a long, gently arcing ribbon of talcum-fine white sand. The water is that improbable Anguillian shade of glass-bottle turquoise, shallow and calm on most days thanks to the reef offshore, and you can wade out shoulder-deep without ever losing your footing. The vibe is unhurried and refreshingly local: a couple of shady sea grape trees, the odd fishing skiff pulled up on the sand, kite surfers riding the trade winds at the far western end, and the clop of hooves as riders from nearby Seaside Stables pass through at a lazy trot. There are no big resorts crowding the sand here, no beach club thumping music ΓÇö just the sound of the surf and the occasional cheer from Smokey's at the Cove, the beloved beach-shack restaurant tucked at the eastern end that's been anchoring this stretch for decades.
What to Try
Grab a lounger and rum punch at Smokey's at the Cove and settle in for grilled snapper or their famed BBQ ribs with live acoustic music on Sunday afternoons. Walk the full length of the beach at low tide ΓÇö it's roughly a mile end to end and one of the best barefoot strolls on the island. Book a sunset horseback ride with Seaside Stables next door; they'll walk you straight into the surf. Snorkel the rocky outcrops at either end where parrotfish and the occasional stingray drift through. If the trades are pumping, watch the kiteboarders launch from the western end ΓÇö CBK Watersports runs lessons out here for beginners.
Insider Tip
Sunday afternoon at Smokey's is the move ΓÇö the live band starts around 3pm and the crowd is a proper mix of Anguillans, expats, and in-the-know visitors. Get there by 2pm to lock in a beachfront table, order the crayfish if it's on the specials board, and stay through sunset. Also: the eastern end of the beach near Smokey's has the calmest water and softest sand for kids; the western end is windier and better for walks and kite watching.
The Practical Stuff
Located on Anguilla's south-central coast in the Cove/West End area, about a 15-minute drive from Clayton J. Lloyd International Airport and 20 minutes from The Valley. Free parking is available in the sandy lot behind Smokey's. The beach is open access, no entry fee. Loungers and umbrellas can be rented directly from Smokey's (roughly $20ΓÇô30 for a set). Bring reef-safe sunscreen ΓÇö there's almost no natural shade beyond the sea grape trees. Restrooms are available at Smokey's for patrons. Best visited December through April for the driest weather; September and October are quietest but overlap with hurricane season.
Pair It With
- Smokey's at the Cove — The beach shack that made Cove Bay famous ΓÇö grilled seafood, rum punches, and the island's best Sunday afternoon jam session, all a few steps from your lounger.
- Seaside Stables Anguilla Guide — Right next door to Cove Bay ΓÇö book a beach ride that ends with the horses wading into the shallow turquoise water for the quintessential Anguilla photo.
- Maundays Bay — Just a five-minute drive west, this postcard-perfect crescent fronting the iconic Cap Juluca resort is the natural upscale counterpart to Cove Bay's laid-back feel.
- Rendezvous Bay — A short drive east, this three-mile stretch has views of St. Martin across the channel and the legendary Bankie Banx's Dune Preserve beach bar for sundown.